Top 5 Ridiculous Moments

I have found myself in a bit of a funk this past week. I think it's because everything that once seemed so incredibly absurd is now...well...normal. Up until today, I don't think I had gone a single day without saying, "well that was weird." Today when I was greeting my students at the front gate at 7 AM and then teaching the entire school how to say "see you tomorrow" (a complete lost cause), I never once thought that it was odd. Never in my life would I think I would be charading to the assistant director, who is dressed in a mix of a boy scouts and safari outfit, and being interrupted by the Thai national anthem a typical day. So as a way of saying goodbye to the absolute novelty of Thailand and moving into normalcy, I've decided to make a list of the top 5 most ridiculous of my time in Thailand (thus far).

5. That time a monk asked me if I was single
On Monday I found myself in my first real funk. NOTHING exciting or weird had happened at school. I was a little disappointed and couldn't believe how odd I felt that nothing strange had happened. As I walked home through the temple I walk through twice a day, I happened upon a few monks. I said the usual "sawadee kha" expecting the mundane head nod. But this monk with square-framed glasses knew some English, and began asking me if I was a teacher, how long I had been in Thailand...the usual. Then he asked if I came here alone. "Yes, I did."
"Are you single?" He asked. "Yes," I responded. There was an awkward silence and I told him I would see him later and walked away.




4. The day I got comfortable yelling, "BOAT! SIT DOWN"
Okay, I still laugh when I yell at one of my class clowns, Boat, but only partially because of his name. He is usually doing something laughable that I can't be entirely mad about. But the fact that I could hardly contain myself in the first week when I found out that my kids would be named Pee (okay, pronounced "Bee"), Beer, Ball, Beam, First, Knot, and Cucumber, I'd say I've made some pretty big strides. But once again, I never thought I'd be calling so many students inanimate objects, or considering it normal.









3. When I got head-butted by a baby elephant
My first full weekend in Ayutthaya I went to the elephant sanctuary just off the island. After getting up-close and personal with the elephants, I found that I really enjoyed watching them from afar...and watching people freak out when they tried to feed them cucumbers. I was aware that there was a baby elephant (5 months old) running around, but he was so preoccupied by flopping around in a haystack and all the people circling around him. I didn't think he would be interested in the farang standing by herself watching the grown-up elephants. In my solitary amusement, I suddenly felt something slam into my butt. I looked around and saw that it was the baby elephant's doing. I was a bit taken aback, because even though he is adorable, I didn't really want to rough-house with a 140 kilo baby. I quickly stepped (okay, ran) away and let the little rascal gallivant around on its own.

2. There's a leopard on that table
When you go to a historical site such as the Bridge over the River Kwai, you expect to see your typical tourist fare: t-shirts, post cards, thousands of tourists, souvenir stands, leopards.Ok, even in Thailand you're not completely used to the last one.
On my way to walk across the bridge over the River Kwai, I looked to my left and not-so-casually yelled "THAT IS A LEOPARD" to a leopard casually sleeping on a table a mere 8 feet away from us. It wasn't until our way back that we realized the leopard was in fact chained to the table (by an incredibly short chain). We noticed this however, because it was waking up and snapping at people. When I took a picture of it, the owner asked if I would like to take a picture with it "only 100 baht." Seeing as I did not want to support this cruel man--or get my head bitten off-- I politely declined.

1. The day students had to charade that a man fell through the ceiling
I know I've already told this story, but the mixture between the scaffolding at my school and the fact that a workman was so easily able to fall through the roof of my classroom still blows my mind.
One day as I was exiting the cafeteria, four of my tiniest and most adorable students swarmed me and began jabbering in Thai. My students began pointing to the fifth floor of the building in front of them, where their classroom is, and continually said the word "drop!" "Are they telling me about an egg drop?" I thought. They then began to grab my arms and yell "lift! lift!" as they led me over to the elevator. I said to them, "you want me to lift you somewhere? Am I going to get in trouble? Are you tricking me?!" Of course none of this was understood so I got into the elevator and they jumped up to hit the "5" button. I walked hurriedly down the hall with my pint-sized companions, and ended up in their classroom where there were several women sweeping up debris from a giant hole that had formed in the ceiling. "OH," I said. "A man dropped through the roof." 

pink elephants didn't even make the list of top 5 ridiculousness

And there you have it...my absurd time in Thailand thus far. It's been great, I love it, and I hope dodging elephants, yelling at children nicknamed inanimate objects, and playing charades doesn't get old too fast.

Kanchanaburi

morning view from the Jolly Frog

Don't worry everyone: I made it to Kanchanaburi in once piece!

After being dropped off in front of a 7 Eleven on the side of an unknown road, we were able to find someone who spoke enough English to give us directions to walk to our hostel, which was 2 km away (since there were no taxis or tuk tuks in sight). Upon arriving to the simple Jolly Frog Backpacker's hostel, which is situated on a street with limitless amounts of backpacker bars and restaurants, we were escorted to our 200 baht a night room (that's $7 a night for 2 people). The room was less than luxurious (to say the least) and we were next to a loud bunch of people who part of a Thai wedding party...groom included. But for the cheap price and convenient location, we couldn't really complain, especially when we walked outside the next morning and found ourselves right on the River Kwae with a gorgeous views of the mountains in the Western part of Central Thailand.

farangs at the falls!

After a breakfast that included BREAD, we headed up to Erawan National Park, known for its beautiful 7-tiered waterfall. It was, in fact, absolutely breathtaking and a fairly easy hike. But this waterfall, known for being one of the most beautiful in all of Asia, is no secret: the path was crowded with tourists running around in their bikinis and speedos, though there are signs at the entrance to "respect the culture" and wear shorts and a t-shirt while swimming. Even though the falls were swarming with tourists, the falls are also popular among Thais, who often flock there to swim in the cool waters. My friends and I made it to all 7 tiers at a leisurely pace, and were continuously impressed by the gorgeous cascade each fall presented. It was also refreshing to get out in nice, cool(er), and clean air and frolic in the jungle for the afternoon. We even got to feel like the farang celebrities that we are when we asked a woman to take a picture of us in front of the sign to the national park, and all 15 other (Asian) people waiting also took our picture. Celebrity status, I'm telling you.

Sunset over the River Kwae

The next day we made our way to the famous bridge over the River Kwae, which was made famous because of the Oscar-winning movie Bridge on the River Kwai. Though it is not the original bridge that was built by the POWs and Thai slaves in the Japanese war camp during WWII, it has become a symbol and monument to the thousands of people that died during the construction of the "Death Railway." Though the museum was horrible (worst I have ever been to due to the randomness, questionable legitimacy of artifacts, and insufficient information in any language) and the bridge crowded, I DID learn a little bit and thoroughly enjoyed walking across the bridge, learning about something I knew nothing about, and being in beautiful Kanchanaburi.

The Bridge and a Chinese Temple

I loved my trip to Kanchanaburi and would recommendmaking a trip to anyone in central Thailand. I would also highly recommend the Jolly Frog for the backpackers out there--just don't get your food with large groups because they are NOT happy to accommodate separate checks. I would also recommend checking out Erawan Falls, but be prepared for a leisurely hike and swarms of tourists. If you get the opportunity or have the funds to go to a less-crowded area, you should definitely take advantage.

Typical

Earlier this week Kate and I decided to meet some friends in kanchanaburi, which is home to the bridge that set the story for the famous 1957 movie 'Bridge on the River Kwai' and is a popular tourist destination. Should be easy to get to, yes? This is Thailand we're talking about, so of course not.
After scouring the Internet for any information about a bus from Ayutthaya to Kanchanaburi and having no luck, we finally asked some Thai friends who told us that we take the 130 bus from a large shopping complex an hour away. Well, we are currently the only 2 farangs squished in the back of a minibus (large van frequently used as a mode of transportation) that is not marked with any numbers, and 2 extra people have been shoved in...one on a plastic stool in the middle of 2 seats (safety first always). Are we going to Kanchanaburi? Will we end up in Burma? Might we be dropped off in a town where no one speaks English? All valid questions, but rest assured that after the driver (with a look of dread in his eyes) asked us where we were going--and after a few attempts to understand our terrible accents and mispronunciation-- and confirmed that we will in fact reach our final destination (next blog post will hopefully confirm this).
Just another typical Thai adventure filled with confusion, charades, and some breach of American safety regulations.

World's Biggest Birthday Party

In the United States you hear about celebs' huge birthday bashes: who showed up, what was served, how much money was spent, and how they partied through the night. But does a whole entire country celebrate their birthdays? Why, no, and that what makes the King of Thailand's birthday oh-so-special.
Going into today I knew that the country had a strong allegiance to their king, who also happens to be the longest reigning monarch...ever. I was aware that hundreds of thousands of people were going to line the streets in Bangkok to catch a glimpse of his highness for his first public appearance on Father's Day in 6 years. I knew that if I did not wear yellow, the King's favorite color, that I would stick out even more than I already do. I did not know, however, how large the celebration would extend to Ayutthaya. At around 5 o'clock I had an idea of how big the celebration would be when I heard Gangnam Style blast and my room begin to rattle. I went outside and saw that not only was there a huge stage set up outside of our guesthouse, but that our whole street had been transformed into a huge market with carnival games, muay Thai rings, and projection screens.

Creeper shot: candle lighting

Though the festivities started out with a huge ceremony in front of town hall to commemorate the King, complete with Buddhist monks sending their prayers and giant fireworks, the rest of the evening was for the people to enjoy. Pick your poison: fried food, Thai dances and performances, musical acts, muay Thai fights, or movies. Being a novice to all of these things, we exposed ourselves to all.

My first muay Thai fight.

The muay Thai fighting was definitely the highlight for me. Muay Thai is a kind of Thai boxing that can begin training at a very young age ( 6, perhaps?). It takes great skill and agility, but is ruthless and intense. The fighters are incredibly agile and quick, and each of the rounds are quite short.

The Thai performances were extremely different than just about anything that could be imagined in the United States. The musical instruments vaguely sounded like the banging of pots and pans, and the glittery costumes were blinding.

As much as I enjoyed the King's birthday festivities, I am a bit bitter because though it was convenient to have such a short commute to and from the excitement, my bedroom will not stop rattling from the beat of the drum and the sound of the music from the performance outside, which just so happens to be on the largest stage in the whole celebration. I did see some of my students out tonight though, so I suppose I won't be the only one tired in school tomorrow.

right outside of our guesthouse

Kim and me dressed in yellow to honor the King.

Loi Krathong

me with our krathong

Last Wednesday was the Thai holiday known as Loi Krathong. The holiday involves the release of little floats (krahtongs) made out of bread or banana tree into a body of water.. Many people put toe nail clippings or pieces of hair on their rafts to symbolize the release of anything dirty or sinful. The release of the rafts is supposed to symbolize letting go of any grudges or bad feelings, and to make a wish for the year to come. It is a time where family comes together to eat food, watch (or maybe partake in) beauty pageants, and set off lots of fireworks.

Angry Birds krathongs made from bread

My friends and I went to two Loi Krathong celebrations. One that was a large market and a carnival by our guesthouse, and the other which was across the street from the school in which I teach. We did not set off our krathongs until we got to the second celebration, as we felt better and "more Thai" by letting go of our sins into one of the rivers that makes Ayutthaya an island. My friends and I were all novices, and sheepishly lit the candles and incense on our kratongs while trying to slyly watch the experienced Thai people release their krathongs into the river. Some of the families went out into the middle of the river on a boat, but we decided to stay ashore. Upon kneeling down on the edge of the dock, we noticed many little boys swimming in the water and carrying out krathongs of families that would tip them, ensuring that their sins and grudges be carried down the river.

Kate and I about to release our lantern

Loy Krathongalso falls on the same day as a lantern holiday in northern Thailand. Though this holiday is primarily celebrated in Chiang Mai, the idea of releasing lanterns into the sky has become a symbol of Thailand and good luck. Kate and I had seen gorgeous pictures of lanterns being released in Chiang Mai and decided to release one of our own. Though our lantern joined only a few other lanterns in the night sky, it was still cool to release one and look up at the sky throughout the night and see tiny orange dots that were other people's wishes of good luck.

After releasing our beautiful floral banana tree krathong and  our good luck lantern, we went up to a parking lot that is generally a market at night, that was turned into a fair ground complete with bright lights and 2 stages for performances and a beauty pageant.

away goes our lantern!

Besides celebrating Thai holidays (The King's birthday/father's day is on Wednesday and constitution day is December 10), I have been teaching and really enjoying it. My students are for the most part entertaining, and I have some real sweethearts. Last week as I was exiting the cafeteria, four of my tiniest and most adorable students swarmed me and began jabbering in Thai. One of the hardest parts of teaching at a Thai school is that I cannot connect with most of my students because of the language barrier. So instead, my time at school--actually, most of my time in Thailand--is a giant game of charades with a few English words mixed in. My students began pointing to the fifth floor of the building in front of them, where their classroom is, and continually said the word "drop!" "Are they telling me about an egg drop?" I thought. They then began to grab my arms and yell "lift! lift!" as they led me over to the elevator. I said to them, "you want me to lift you somewhere? Am I going to get in trouble? Are you tricking me?!" Of course none of this was understood so I got into the elevator and they jumped up to hit the "5" button on the elevator. I walked hurriedly down the hall with my pint-sized companions, and ended up in their classroom where there were several women sweeping up debris from a giant hole that had formed in the ceiling. "OH," I said. "A man dropped through the roof."

The hole in the ceiling

The poor M1/1's classroom is still closed off, and the school is still undergoing a massive paint job (as to why there was a painter on the roof) on the bamboo scaffolding around the school. The event of a painter causally falling through a roof would never happen in the United States, but because everyone is safe and sound, this is just another "only in Thailand" type of story that makes every day an adventure.

scaffolding on the side of the school...safety regulations are clearly MUCH different

Thai Thanksgiving

Moo Kata (jellyfish on top)

I went into this holiday season knowing it would be different than ones past. I have not been in heat less than 90 degrees, haven't eaten a potato in a month, and am surrounded by people who have never seen snow . Though I have been graced with several days off of teaching, they were not for the intention of spending the day with one's family and gorging ourselves with food (though it seems as though Thai people are constantly eating). I had even come to terms with knowing that I would probably spend Thanksgiving eating Pad Thai on the side of the street with a few of my local friends. It would be different, but I was okay with it--I'm in Thailand!

I was pleasantly surprised when a day before Thanksgiving one of my coworkers invited me, Matthias, and Alex out to a Thai style meal called Moo Kata. We informed him that we would be happy to go to dinner with him, and even happier to have a Thai feast on American Thanksgiving. Moo Kata refers to the pork that is grilled, though the restaurant we went to had a large variety of raw meats including shrimp, chicken, beef, and jellyfish. The restaurant was buffet-style, which is perfect for a Thanksgiving feast, and we sat around for 3 hours gorging ourselves with different cuts of meat with various spices and 2 large beers. I was adventurous enough to have jellyfish, which I actually really enjoyed--so much that I went back for seconds...and thirds.

intestines....ohhh yeaahhh

Though it was a bit of an unconventional Thanksgiving, it was certainly one of the more memorable ones. I was certainly happy that I not only had a delicious meal on Thanksgiving, but have made good enough friends in my short time here to have such a wonderful Thanksgiving day.
But Thanksgiving is never over in one day because there are over leftovers! And since I didn't have leftovers, my friends and I went out to a New Orleans themed restaurant in Bangkok that had a beautiful buffet spread of Western Thanksgiving dishes that I went a little overboard with....but it was so. good.
Though I love Thai food....I miss Western food. Especially the variety we are so used to. It's amazing how much variety that Americans are given with their food choices. I really miss cheese. And bread. And anything that isn't rice based. But I love mango...and green curry...and pad thai (haven't gotten sick of that one yet).

Bangkok has some GREAT Christmas decorations

Thanksgiving this year made me realize what I am really grateful for: good health, a wonderful and supportive family, and amazing friends--old and new--all around the world...oh, and the good fortune of not being in the classroom (or any of my students) when a painter fell through the roof and dropped into one of my classrooms. Which leads me to be thankful for such an amazing opportunity to be living in Thailand and knowing that every day will be another incredible adventure!

TEECHA Laura

fan mail

I am now entering my 4th week of teaching...which is also my first full week of teaching. Despite my sporadic schedule and minimal time with students, I am finally starting to feel like a real teacher. Not only have I been able to have students enough times to review material already learned--and making sure that they retained it--, but I have also graded homework assignments, given students extra help, and always get a slew of "goodbyes" by students I actually recognize when leaving the school. It is pretty wonderful to feel part of a community and feel as if I am actually making an impact on some student's education...even though I can count those students on one hand.
A student in one of my M4 classes (15 and 16 year olds) reached out to me last week and told me that she loves English and would like to meet with me as often as possible so that she can practice her English. I also received my first piece of fan mail: a cartoon drawing of me teaching. I would have been skeptical of the girl's intentions and actual attention given during my class while she created this masterpiece, but she was the only one participating in the class, so I'm more than okay with my desk decoration and her enthusiasm towards me and English.
Even though I have some great students, I also have some SERIOUS trouble makers. There are 2 boys in my younger classes that want to see me lose it and will go to any length to try. I call these the devil spawn because they try to make my classroom feel like their birthplace of hell. One of them loves me so much he snuck into a class he was not supposed to be in and I had to kick him out before he wreaked havoc and made me lose my mind...for a second time that day. I also had not one, but 2 students sprint out of class on 2 separate days. In 2 separate classes.
Between my students that love me and hate me, it's pretty hard to gauge how good of a teacher I actually am.

Not sure if this is a construction worker or a cyborg Michael Jackson

Though I have some real nightmares, I was warned I would be at the naughty school, so having the few students that actually want to learn is extremely rewarding. I am enjoying teaching though, and walking out of a good class puts me in an excellent mood. Even though the novelty of me being one of 3 farangs in the school has not worn off (I get random "I love yous"...okay it's still kind of nice), I am finally finding my comfort zone in both my school and Ayutthaya.

Celebrity Status

After two weeks in Ayutthaya I am finally getting settled and feeling more and more as if this city of street-crossing elephants, ancient ruins, and few traffic lights, is in fact my home. I have bought a bike, spent a full week at school (minimal teaching was involved...2 days, in fact), and am recognized around town by colleagues, a restaurant owner, and students (for better or for worse). I know the lay of the land, what to buy in Tesco Express versus the oh-so-convenient 7-Eleven, which vendors at the night market are my favorite, and even how to hop on the minibus to Bangkok for one night. It's amazing that I am getting into a routine already and am feeling confident in this once far off land that I now call home.

Cain, a 4 month old elephant

My comfort is not complete, as I do not speak Thai and find it nearly impossible to order food from many street vendors I would like to try. Sometimes my frustrations go so far as to take the easy route and just splurge on KFC. Today I found myself on a 15 minute quest that led me to find that only knowing how to order "pad Thai" leads to finding that not all street vendors make that, many vendors don't want to play charades with a clueless farang, or me not wanting to attempt because what other people had looked a bit iffy. Don't worry though, I finally found a vendor that served soup (and spoke a little English) and had a pleasant street-side meal. After wandering around a section of the city I didn't even knew existed, I realized how comfortable I have become with the small area of the island that I reside.

sports week opening ceremony (a torch and parade were involved)

Along with becoming comfortable in my new surroundings, I feel as if those around me should understand that I live here as well. No matter how long I live here however, I will always be called farang. But up until today, it was kind of cool being a farang--celebrity, almost. Kids would say "hello" to you, flashing back a large smile when you returned the greeting; strangers would tell you you're beautiful or handsome; little kids shamelessly point and smile at the sight of you. Today was the first day I began to take my celebrity status for granted, because no matter how long I am here, I will always be stared at, be given a higher price, or just avoided because it is presumed (rightfully so) that I don't speak a word of Thai.It's a strange feeling being so blatantly out of place, because there is nothing I can do to mask the color of my skin.

The PVC pipe race (and fall)--a sports week event

Though my white skin makes me a foreigner, I am still exploring the island and getting out of my comfort zone (I often find myself in areas where farangs don't venture and I am the only white person). This past weekend, however, was not one of those weekends. My friend Kate and I went down to Bangkok for one night (I will write a Bangkok post soon) and then I headed back to Ayutthaya and found myself on Soi Farang (Foreigner alley) with my western friends. The next day I made my way out to the elephant sanctuary, which is about 10 minutes off the island. All the elephants are domesticated, and they even have dangerous and murderous elephants (these elephants are kept far away and have the largest tusks I could ever imagine). All of the elephants are chained to a tree or a poll, and many are kept behind a large bar--except for Cane. The 5-month-old rascal baby elephant that snuck up behind me and head-butted me in the butt. He is adorable and it was hilarious. I absolutely love elephants, though they are extremely huge and a bit scary because you know it would really hurt if they stepped on your toe.

Elephants crossing the road: a daily occurrence in Ayutthaya

This week is another lax teaching week. Last week, 3 of the days were reserved for sports week(though the third day it looked more like just a giant dance party), in which we had to be in the school but not teach. This week, there is an academic competition going on at our school and the neighboring school, meaning that we don't teach, but again, must be in the office. Next week will surely be a reality check, as we will have 5 whole days of teaching, and the introductory class to our Wednesday classes (yes, I have 5 classes I have yet to see). As tiring as next week will be, I am excited to see what a fresh crop of students--and nicknames--will bring.

A Week in Ayutthaya

Wat Yai Chai Mongkol, the largest of the ruins

Kate, Alex, Matthias, and I are not what you would call light packers

I have been in Ayutthaya, my home city for the next four months, for a week now, and an exciting one it has been. Not only did I move into my new apartment and discover a new city, but I also began my teaching assignment. Overall, week one has been pretty great, with my first 4 days of teaching not being a disaster (huge success).

The School
The secondary school that I am teaching at (2,700 students between the ages of 12 and 18) in Ayutthaya is a government school. I am teaching M1(12/13 year olds) and M4 (14/15 year olds). Within 45 minutes of my first day, I was in front of a podium in front of the entire student body giving an introduction of myself in a language most students barely understood. Promptly after my all-school debut, wondering if any of the students could even understand me, and what they thought of the three new (and only) foreign teachers, I taught my first class. In a few of my classes I have a Thai assistant, but they are generally there for classroom control, not for clarifying my instructions. I found myself alone in a room yesterday explaining to a class of 50 students what a question was. I have quickly had to learn how to simplify everything that comes out of my mouth, and I am generally still too complicated for beginner speakers to understand me.
 Going into my teaching assignment, I was told that it was going to be a "challenge." The biggest challenge I have faced so far is not being able to speak a word of Thai. It is not only frustrating because I cannot translate anything I am saying to help the students (though they would probably manipulate me and pretend that they didn't understand anything in English, forcing me to say most things in Thai), but I cannot reprimand them or defend myself if they say something rude in Thai. I just smile and nod. Oh, the life of a clueless farang (Thai for foreigner). Though I give my students a lot of grief, some of them are incredibly bright, others don't have enough basic English to be in a classroom with me, and others just can't stop staring at one of the three non-Thai teachers--sorry, people-- in the entire school.

I don't have any pictures of my school...but this is by my apartment

Though I feel a bit clueless 60% of the time, class is often fun and exciting. This first week I have been playing games with the students, and once they understand the rules, their competitiveness and laughter quickly fills the room...along with their interesting English nicknames (Oil, Arm, Cucumber, Beer, and James Hunter--he is Thai and barely speaks English-- are some of my favorites). The foreign language department is also very welcoming. We all sit in an air-conditioned office together. The Thai English teachers are eager to practice their English and will accompany the Foreign English teachers (me, Alex, and Matthias) to lunch and answer any questions about the constantly changing rules and days off.

Elephant tours

Working at the school a mere four days has already got me used to the Thai phrase, "mai pan rai," which means "no worries." If your students are 15 minutes late, go with it. If the rest of this week (Wednesday-Friday) is sports week and there are no classes, so be it. We have a 3-day week next week? Awesome. Class was cancelled midway through? See ya later, kids. I have never in my life had to "go with the flow" so much as I have in the past 4 days. Though it has been a challenge (sometimes more so than keeping a class's attention for more than 5 seconds), I am becoming more and more accustomed to the relaxed Thai way of life.


Quick Facts on Ayutthaya:

• The capital of Siam between the early 1300s and the late 1700s
• Was once the largest city in the world
• Some of the temples are architecturally similar to Angkor Wat in Cambodia
• It's technically an island since it is surrounded by 3 rivers
• Usually seen as a day trip from Bangkok to tourists 

Elephants on their way to work.

A mere block away from the guesthouse I am living in (called the Grandparent's home...and yes, it's owned by an old couple) are red clay and brick ruins from the ancient capital of Siam. Wandering around Ayutthaya you will stumble upon old, unmarked ruins next to shops or hidden behind billboards. The touristy areas (which house the most famous wats in two large parks) are surrounded by wide avenues. Getting closer to the rivers, however, farangs are rarely spotted and the roads narrow and are lined with street vendors, small shops, and markets. I spent the weekend in Ayutthaya, one day by foot and the other on bike. It's a beautiful, flat city with historical ruins on (or between) almost every corner. I was actually a bit overwhelmed by how much there is to see on the island. I thought it would have seen the entire city in a day on a bike, but heat and curiosity of side streets and markets got me, and I am only familiar with about half of the island. My wandering led me to wats, parks, markets, and many many elephants both doing shows in a park and giving tours around the city. Though quiet at night, the city is vibrant during the day. It is a great place for a teacher to live as it is only an hour and a half (and 60 baht) from Bangkok, has many cheap food options including a night market every night a block away from my apartment, and historical significance to Thailand.

Buddhas that surround the main part of the temple at Wat Yai Chai Mongkol

Island Hopping

The middle leg of my 3 week break between my TESOL training and teaching placement in Ayutthaya led me to three islands in the Bay of Thailand: Koh Samui, Koh Phagnan, and Koh Tao. All these islands are known for their beauty and individual personalities. We spent one night on Koh Samui, 3 nights on Koh Phagnan, and one night on Koh Tao. It's easiest for me to go through all of these islands one by one.
Koh Samui

The view after the "crawl" from our bungalow

We arrived on the famed paradisical island in the Bay of Thailand around 5:30 PM. The sun was beginning to set and it was completely dark at the end of our 45 minute tuk tuk ride to our beachside resort. I was aware that Koh Samui was the most built up out of all the islands in the Bay of Thailand, but I was shocked to see how much it resembled Phuket, a town I had visited earlier in my trip (recall the vegetarian festival), and was shocked that "island life" on Samui was more resort life. There is a road that goes around the entire circumference of the third largest island in Thailand that is lined with stores, markets, and travel agencies. The characteristic that made Samui much more islandy was the fact that motor bikes outnumbered cars by a long shot, and the markets on the side of teh road accommodated to this by sellingliters of gasoline in empbty Hong Thong bottles (a spirit that is quite popular and is described as "blended spirits) for 40 baht.

Our touristy tour around Phangnan

Upon arriving to our hotel, the hotel manager greeted us and informed us that we had "the shittiest room, but you can crawl to the beach." We were completely okay with this since it is what we were looking for, and settled into our completely fine bungalow. Our resort was on a beautiful stretch of beach bookended on either side by rounded rocks. Resorts line the entire beach, except where there is the occassional cluster of bars. My friend Alicia and I decided to venture around Samui on our one day there and went to a waterfall, pet some elephants, and went to a Buddhist temple overlooking the ocean. We ended our whirlwind day by napping on the beach before catching the last ferry to Koh Phangnan.
Koh Phangnan:

Neon art at the Half Moon party.

We sat outside and in the front of the ferry for the entirety of the 40 minute ride. Shortly after we began our journey, we were able to see the mountainous island known for it's wild full moon parties appear out of the haze. As soon as we got to the port of the island, it had an entirely different feel from the resort island of Samui. We decided to stay on Haad Rin Beach, the most built-up part of the island, and the area where the full moon party takes place. Though we were arriving to the island 6 days before the party (which we did not attend), flocks of young people were getting off the ferry and jumping into mini buses taking them to Haad Rin area. We handed our luggage to the minibus driver, who threw it on top of the van. When we got to our hotel, we were shocked that our luggage remained on top of the bus, which went up and down steep hills that were just barely drivable and impossibly sharp curves. Our stay on Phangnan consisted of a couple days of rain, snorkeling with luminescent and electric-looking fish, a half-moon party in the jungle, eating at a restaurant that always screened movies or the TV show friends, and a day at the beach. I'm glad I went to Koh Phagnan, but wish I had had the resources to go to the less popular beaches, though the infamous sunset beach is quite nice. I will admit: I have become a HUGE beach snob after this vacation. Sunset beach had a few pieces of trash on it (expectedly, since it is a party beach), and I could not believe how much it disgusted me. I was also a little disappointed at how rocky Samui was. SO OBNOXIOUS. I KNOW.
Koh Tao

Cloudy (but beautiful) Koh Tao

Though similar geographically to Phangnan and Samui, I found this diver-centric island oddly more beautiful. It rained the entire 24 hours while I was there, so I didn't even get to go snorkeling, but I loved the laid-back feel of this island that had the same feel as a ski resort, but instead of being filled with families and ski bums, it was filled with really attractive people, mostly under 30, and all obsessed with fish. I made my trip to Koh Tao during my stay on Phangnan (I went Samui--> Phangnan-->Tao-->Phangnan--> Bangkok), and on our way to Bangkok we stopped on Koh Tao to pick people up on the way to Chumphon. It was a perfect day (of course) and I could see the bottom of the ocean about 500 feet away from the dock. I am now determined to go back to Koh Tao and get my diving certification there (it has some of the best diving in the world, and almost all of the resorts on one of the beaches is owned by diving schools).

I've gotten behind in my blogging, but this entry concludes my 5 week run on beautiful beaches and idyllic scenery. As sad as I am to be leaving paradise, I am SO EXCITED to see Bangkok and my new home of Ayutthaya (spoiler alert: I love both). I will get my act together this week and write about my 4 days in Bangkok and my first week in Ayutthaya which includes teaching the "naughty" children and living in a city amongst monks, temples, and elephants.

Ao Nang

Kate and I are currently on the bus from Ao Nang to Surithani, where we will take a boat to Ko Samui. We were picked up on the side of the road by a large tuk tuk, and dropped off on a lush side road with a small, makeshift bus station, a large bus, and 3 mini buses. Each person was given a sticker corresponding to their island destination. All 20 of us stood around a little confused and concerned that we had just been dropped off in the middle of the jungle and that we were all about to be robbed. But we're all on the bus (which strangely has siren lights in the back that will not turn off) on our way to the port and no scams seem to be in sight. This odd (yet seemingly normal for Thailand) means of transportation culminates a 5 night stay on Ao Nang beach in the Krabi province of Southern Thailand. Ao Nang Beach is a gorgeous strip of beach enclosed by massive sandstone cliffs on the Southwest side. To the north are rolling hills. The part of Ao Nang beach that we were staying on was unbelievably touristy, with more Italian restaurants than we could count.

Caroline, Amy, and me on a longtail boat

The first day in Ao Nang we decided to go over to less-crowded Rai Lay beach, which is known for its seclusion and rock climbing. We took the 10 minute longtail boat ride over past towering sandstone cliffs and turquoise waters. Our day included swimming in the calm sea, eating a $6 tuna sandwich, marveling at the rounded cliff above us and the similar rock formations on the next island over, and floating in the oh-so-salty water that felt like it was prickling our skin. We loved Rai Lay so much that we headed over the next day for a day of trekking. Kate had read about a hike to a viewpoint and a "secret lagoon." What she read failed to mention that the "hike" was really a climb, the only assistance being ropes at some points, The way up was not too bad, as you could see where you were going. The viewpoint was absolutely beautiful and totally worth it. At the viewpoint we met two women who were headed to the secret lagoon with a tour guide. He told us he would take us to the lagoon, which was a very difficult climb down. We could not imagine anything more difficult than what we had already done, or at least without the assistance of harnesses, so we followed him. The lagoon was down from where we were, and extremely muddy. I was already hesitant when I slipped on a downward slope in the mud and banged my knee, causing a few wounds and scrapes. My hurt knee and fear of falling again did not stop me from going, but as soon as we saw the verticle climb down to the lagoon, Kate and I decided to turn around. Though the climb itself was not hard, it was strategic and scary.

Rai Lay Beach East and West

me petting a giant sting ray

The next day I woke up early to go to an aquatic research center with Bob and Collin where I fed giant fish a smaller dead fish (cool? gross?), pet a giant sting ray and sea turtles, and saw uncountable adorable clownfish and seahorses. The center had some interesting fish, but was not very clean, especially compared to American standards and there was a dead sea turtle in one of the tanks :(. Later that day I got my first Thai massage. A woman on the street took us down a long stretch of beachside restaurants, which eventually turned into a row of beachside massage shops, all open-aired and thatched roofed. They were all numbered. The 5 minute walk left us confused, but relieved to finally reach number 17, which was her shop. We thoroughly enjoyed our 1 hour massage while listening to a light rain patter on the roof and the waves crashing on the beach. The best part: it only cost 200 baht ($7).
Yesterday was our last day in Ao Nang. After our intense hike day we took a long boat back with a Swiss man named Sven who told us about a family of monkeys that lived at the end of Ao Nang Beach. Bob, Jess, Kate, and I decided to check them out, thinking we would be able to see them swinging in trees above us. As we ascended the rickety staircase up a mountain, we were greeted by a monkey just hanging out on a railing. He just sat there and stared at us, clearly used to people, yet we were still scared since these are wild animals. I continued to head up the stairs and stopped as soon as I saw a baby monkey (that looked like a fetus jumping around), afraid that the mother would get over protective and attack anyone who came close enough with her sharp teeth. We finally got up the courage to move forward and stood amongst the monkeys. We saw probably 20 monkeys. Some stood on the walkway, some on the railing, walking around, not  trying in any way to avoid us. There were several young monkeys running around and playing. Though the monkeys were completely fine with our presence, I was still scared by the fact that they are wild animals and could at any moment turn on us.

me and a few monkeys

I have been meaning to update this blog for a couple of days now but haven't had much internet. I currently just arrived to Koh Phangan after a wonderful day on beautiful Koh Samui. We will be on Ko Phangan for the next five days before heading up to Bangkok!